Travel Report: Bernina Express from St. Moritz 🇨🇭 to Tirano 🇮🇹
Hello from Milan, Italy! I’ve reached the final country on my trek and I’ve arrived via another world class train line. Today’s star was the Bernina Express, which travels between St. Moritz and Tirano, Italy. This line is named after the Bernina Pass through the Alps.
In the last few days, I had been seeing snow in the forecast for St. Moritz. I spoke about the forecasted snow with a few people working at my hotel and they were skeptical that it would snow there this time of year.
So, this morning when I woke up and looked out my window…sure enough the snow was falling!
Staff in the hotel continued to tell me this is very abnormal for St. Moritz this time of year. I’ll take them at their word and believe that I must be very lucky then to have a train ride in snow today.
And it really did make the passing forests look like a winter wonderland.
Sure, we couldn’t see the mountains or valleys that we’d normally see on this route, but I think it was worth it to get a taste of winter in Switzerland. A few passengers sitting nearby agreed it was our lucky day.
After about an hour into the trip, we stopped so passengers could exit and take photos. We were told this is a very scenic location. I’ll just have to assume that’s true.
Since we really couldn’t see anything much in the distance, I decided to photograph the snowy train instead.
When we got underway again and slowly began our decent, the snow turned to rain and the forests became more dense and green.
Looking at the weather radar, it the snow really seemed to be isolated just to the area around St. Moritz.
As we traveled along, one of the notable sights was this 360 degree spiral viaduct. I always enjoy when the curve is tight enough to see the cars ahead of us.
Shortly after the viaduct, we arrived in Tirano, Italy! The Bernina Express describes itself as “from glaciers to palms” and sure enough I did see palm trees in Tirano! What a ride to go from the snow to palm trees in about 2 hours.
I thought it was interesting that the Bernina Express basically runs right through the heart of this small town, almost operating as a street car. When you exit, you are in a small square. Here’s the building that serves as the entrance to the railway to Switzerland.
And here’s the building for the Italian train service, operating under the name Trenord.
I had lunch in Tirano, cacio e pepe from a restaurant right next to the station. Not bad! Certainly better than what I was expecting to eat near the station.
The view waiting for the train in Tirano. Not a bad view with the Alps in the background. But I couldn’t help but notice that things were no longer as pristine as they were in Switzerland.
My original ticket from Tirano to Milan was for 3pm. I’m not sure why I left myself so much time (almost 4 hours) in Tirano. I guess I thought I’d have a leisurely lunch? Well, I was ready to head out around 12:30, so I bought a ticket for the 1:00 train to Milan.
As the train neared Milan, it got pretty crowded. At least in my car, it seemed every seat was taken.
After about 2 and a half hours, we pulled into Milan and wow it’s crowded. I’ve to see a train station so bustling. I guess a lot of people are taking the train in Milan.
And that brings us to the present moment, here in my hotel room in Milan. Tomorrow I’ll sightsee, then on Sunday I head to Rome, which will mark the end of my solo train adventure. (Don’t worry, my wife and I will still be using trains to get around Italy. But the motives change to practicality over train travel for the sake of train travel.)
Reflecting now on my time in Switzerland, wow was it incredible. Not just because of the trains (which were great), but all the natural beauty is what stands out. Seeing the Alps was amazing. The views from the Glacier Express were great, but honestly, being in Zermatt, seeing the Matterhorn, then taking the gondola up to 12,700 feet for even more insane views really takes the cake. What an amazing place. I’m already thinking about when I can return, haha!
That’s all for now. I’ll have another update tomorrow with what I saw in Milan. Goodnight!